Vicki and I let the kids sleep in one morning and made our way to San Pietro in Vincoli, or the church of Saint Peter in Chains, located on the Esquiline Hill, about 20 minutes walking from our apartment. The reason was to see the tomb of Pope Julius II, one of Michaelangelo's masterpieces, and particularly his sculpture of Moses. Michaelangelo worked on this project for forty years! Originally, it was supposed to be a massive funeral monument comprising 47 statues. It was seriously scaled down over the years because poor Michaelangelo kept getting distracted by other projects like painting the Sistine Chapel. Many of the unfinished statues originally intended for this monument are now known as the Slaves and can be seen in the Louvre in Paris and at the Academia in Florence.
The monument in its present form is still massive and the centerpiece, Moses, is exquisitely sculpted.
 |
The monumental tomb of Pope Julius II by Michaelangelo. |
 |
Moses is the central figure in the monument. The "horns" on his head represent rays of light. |
 |
Detail of the reclining Pope Julius II set in an oddly sensual way above Moses. |
 |
Detail of Rachel, flanking Moses. |
The church gets its name from the chains believed to have held Saint Peter in captivity. Legend has it that the chains that bound Saint Peter during his captivity in Jerusalem and those that held him in the Mamertine prison in Rome fused together when they were being examined by Pope Leo I.
 |
The reliquary containing the chains of Saint Peter. |
The church has also several other tombs, a few of which have very macabre designs incorporating sculpted skeletons. It reminded me of the old movie
Jason and the Argonauts with the fighting skeletons.
 |
Detail of the tomb of Cardinal Mariano Pietro Vecchiarelli. |
 |
Detail of the tomb of Cardinal Cinzio Passeri Aldobrandini. |
We were glad to have taken the time to visit this church with its very interesting sculptures and relics, some of which are better known than others.
Mario