From Market to Tristanara

On Wednesday, our group decided it was time to check out what is ostensibly the largest market of its kind in Europe, the Luino Market, a tradition since the mid-sixteenth century. Vicki, one of our intrepid researchers, had done her homework and discovered that in order to avoid being daunted by the crowds, much of which was comprised of Swiss tourists, we would need to get to the market by around 9:00, when it opened. Mario determined where would be the most strategic place to park in order to be able to do so with little hassle. Everyone, including the youngest of our group (who, I might add, have not always seen the morning from anywhere but their beds, if they see it at all) was determined to be ready to leave our home in Cerro to travel to Luino. Our friends, Peter and Alice, even forewent a breakfast at their hotel nearby in order to join us on this expedition.

We set out in two vehicles for Luino, the sun shining with a bit of a breeze. We found the aforementioned parking area and, as predicted, were able to park with no problem. It was a treat to be at the lake with a clear view of the water and the mountains – not a bad combination. A meeting time and place was set as we split up to explore the vast array of merchandise on offer, from clothing to leather goods to gadgets to food. We were amazed at the extent of the market, which covered several streets in the old quarter of this lakeside town. Some of what we saw was very impressive e.g. breads the size of a dining room table, beautiful wingtip shoes in a variety of colours, linen shirts with multicoloured buttons, personal fans that plug into iPhones, anchovies wrapped in sun-dried tomatoes and grilled eggplant and some of it was more reminiscent of dollar store fare – cheap sunglasses, carved tchatchkes, Lago Maggiore souvenirs.

Peter and Alice in the Luino Market.

Kate, Joy and Vicki.

Mario is impressed by the shoes, but not for him.

A Bread Table?

We rendezvoused at 11:30, eager to share the highlights of our meanderings. Although Tristan didn't buy anything at the market, he did manage to pick up an Italian girl!

Tristan e la Ragazza Italiana

A ferry had just pulled into the harbour, unloading its cargo of eager shoppers. It reinforced the wisdom of coming early as the streets were becoming increasingly crowded. We decided to drive to Laveno, much closer to home (and much less crowded), for lunch. Peter and Alice had very generously offered to treat us as they had joined us the last couple of evenings for dinner and wanted to contribute in some way to our meals together.

Alice chose a restaurant (as Alices are known to do) and her choice was an excellent one. From the two dozen packages of salted breadsticks and the olives, taralli and potato chips that were complimentary to start the meal to the delicious entrees from salads in taco-like bowls and the incredibly generous caprese salad and the yummy pizzas, it was a veritable feast. The waitress enjoyed our applause each time a new dish was brought to the table.

Caprese Salad with Giant Mozzarella

Roasted Vegetable Pizza

After such a sumptuous meal, it was time to either go for a swim or have a siesta. Most opted for the latter. Peter and Alice went back to their hotel for a siesta, the rest of us returned to our house and some walked to the beach. It was a bit odd that suddenly the winds had increased and clouds came in and there were whitecaps on the water in the lake. The anticipated swim was quickly changed into a short hike as they returned to the house. The rest of the afternoon was spent either reading or napping or just chilling, trying to digest that wonderful lunch to make room for what would be "tagliatelle Tristanara," the pasta entree that Tristan would prepare with the help of his sous-chefs.

Before we knew it, we were eating again – appetizers. At the market, we'd bought the aforementioned eggplant-wrapped sun-dried tomatoes, some olives, tuna-stuffed baby peppers. We also had watermelon and, perhaps the pièce de résistance, stuffed zucchini flowers. Kate had bought some beautiful zucchini flowers, which she kindly agreed to turn into an amazing appetizer. She started by de-flowering the flowers (removing the pistil).

De-flowering the Flowers

Then she stuffed them with mozzarella cheese. Then came the flouring of the flowers – dipping them in a mixture of flour and water.

Flouring the Flowers

Finally, they were fried in sunflower oil to a beautiful golden hue. What a treat!

Fiori di Zucca

Knowing that this would be a very special meal, Joy was in her newly-acquired dress from the Luino Market.

A Joy to Behold

Then Chef Tristan began his preparations for the evening meal. He clearly took charge as he directed his underlings in the various tasks necessary to achieve the culinary perfection that was his goal.

Tristan Directing His Underlings

He carefully added the final ingredient, the grated cheese …

The Big Cheese

And voilà!

Tagliatelle Tristanara

After this sumptuous feast, we lounged in the backyard, enjoying the dramatic sky. Although it wasn't raining where we were, there seemed to be storm clouds all around us.

Drama in the Sky

Eventually, there was a brief rain, followed by a rainbow.

Somewhere …

This was followed by a beautiful sunset – a fitting ending to a very special day.

Sunset over Cerro

Alan